How do they work?
Wallworker clamps have a spacer bar and a clamping bar that connect the two uprights together creating a clamp that can be used to make a  rectangular box which is filled with concrete, rock or earth. When the first layer of the wall is built or poured the forms are moved (slipped) up and clamped to the wall that has just been built. So they climb the wall as you build it.

How do you start building the wall at ground level?
By placing a spacer such as, PVC tubing, steel rod, a brick, concrete block, or a timber end stop, which is the same thickness as the wall you are going to build, at the base of the forms. Then clamp the sides of the forms to the spacer. This gives them their rigidity so you can build the first layer of wall.

How high can you build the wall?
You can build a wall to any height and depend on the size of the form and the type of wall you are building e.g. concrete, stone or poured earth you can build walls up to the height of 3 forms per day. And the forms are placed (leapfrog) a head of each other to make a continuous horizontal wall.

How do they clamp?
The clamping bar has a wing nut when tightened, pushes the top of the forms outwards. This action causes the frames to pivot on the pins (further down the frame), pushing the bottom of the forms inwards, clamping them to the wall with a vice like grip.

upright clamping action_2 151213

How deep and long can I make the forms?
You can make your forms in various sizes from 1.2 m long x 300 mm deep, 1.8 m long x 600 mm deep and a 1.8 m x 900 mm deep. They are adjusted to build walls from 100 mm to 300 mm thick and one person can use the smaller forms and the larger ones are designed for two or more people.

What about corners?

Corners and tees are made to suit the thickness of the wall you are building. The internal corner form remains the same size but the external corner form has different size panels depending on the wall thickness e.g. 100mm. 200mm or 300mm thick.

How many square and cubic metres per form?
It varies, depending on the size of the forms and the thickness of the wall.
The 1.8 metres long x 600 mm deep forms are approx. 1 square metre and at 300 mm thick is 0.35 of a cubic metre and a 1.2 meters long x 300 mm deep form is 0.36 square metres and at 300 mm thick is 0.11 of a cubic metre.

How much does it cost to build a wall?
That depends on what sort of material you are going to use and your labour costs. With labour allow 1 hour per square metre using ready mix concrete, to assemble, pour and strip down the forms. Longer times for intricate jobs and shorter time for more straight forward jobs and allow approximately $20 per square metre per day for the hire of the forms.

What about footings?
Footings are foundations that are dug into the ground on which you build the wall and the bigger the wall the larger your footings. A 600 mm high x 100 mm thick wall with mesh reinforcing steel, that is not used as a retaining wall probably would not require footings but a 600 mm high x 200 mm thick concrete retaining wall will require footings, say 300 wide by 300 deep with steel reinforcement and reinforcing steel starter bars fixed vertically into the concrete footings.

The advantage of the Wallworker wall building system is that you do not have to have smooth level footings, they can have a rough finish and do not have to dead level, indeed the forms can bet set up on a slope and pivoted up with the next pour to make the wall level.

Are the Wallworker clamps suitable for making rammed earth walls?
We recommend the clamps for DIY and domestic rammed earth projects but you will need thru bolts at 100mm from the bottom of your forms to stop them from flaring out.

You can use the Wallworker forms to build poured earth walls, which have similar qualities to rammed earth walls but are quicker to build and you need less equipment. If you would like more details at  “building rock and earth walls” under “how they work”

What else can you tell me about these Wallworker forms?
The clamps completely separate from each other by screwing the clamping bar out with the spacer bar removed. This pivots the sides of the forms off the wall. This allows you to remove the forms from a wall, while it is still setting, without damaging the shape of the wall. As long as the concrete has passed the slump stage  (it can be in a jelly like state), you can remove the forms and repair or texture the wall while the concrete is still setting.

The clamping, spacer and connecting bars have a special non-clog thread, designed for the construction industry.